If there was no Rome, then Krakow would be Rome.
I have barely fallen in love with Lublin, which after a trip that lasted less than a day immediately jumped to second place on my list of the most charming Polish cities, and one weekend was enough for me to have a serious dilemma whether to move to the Tri-City or to Krakow in my old age.]
I spent just forty-eight hours here with my old friends, but the number of places we visited and pubs we visited could easily be divided into a week's trip.
1. Vegan, according to my daughter - an expert in plant-based cuisine, is the best vegan restaurant in Krakow. I ate there a delicious asparagus cream, polenta fries and oyster mushroom-sejtan goulash.
2. In the Harris Piano Jazz Bar, located in one of the basements right next to the Market Square, we listened to a blues concert while sipping Jameson.
3. We danced at the legendary student club Pod Jaszczurami. Ladies didn't pay for entry, and the dance floor was dominated by Abba, Madonna and Kora.
4. We ate grilled sausages from the iconic Niebieski Nyska with the obligatory orangeade. Crowds from all over Europe flock to the guy who sells these sausages every day until three in the morning at the Market Hall on Grzegórzecka Street for thirty years.
5. We ended the first evening with a visit to Pijana Wiśnia at Grodzka 10. They only have one item on the menu - Lwowska nalewka - but it is served in crystal goblets with strongly scented cherries.
6. The next day, right after a hearty breakfast from Biedronka, we started at Kompania Kuflowa at the foot of Wawel. At the entrance there is a large goods scale, which is worth checking how much weight we have gained during consumption.
7. From Wawel to Planty we took a shortcut leading up a winding staircase, through the Dragon's Den, which was once home to the Wawel Dragon and housed an inn and a brothel.
8. We walked around Krakow's Planty Park between stands with cotton candy and wooden Lajkoniks. We ate oscypek with cranberries next to a fire-breathing dragon.
9. We climbed to the top of the Wawel bell tower to admire the largest and most famous Polish eleven-ton royal bell, the Sigismund Bell.
10. In the basement of the Basilica on the Rock we photographed the crypts of Mickiewicz, Słowacki, Chopin and Piłsudski.
11. We had a cup of coffee at Piwnica pod Baranami in the literary atmosphere of the sixties, among photos by Skrzynecki, Demarczyk and Penderecki.
12. For real Italian pizza, we went right next to the Market Square, to a small and hard-to-find pizzeria called Santa Maria.
13. We watched the Roland Garros final in Krawat in the pool bar on big screens, with a beer. There was no doubt who would receive the cup, so the emotions only got to us when they played the anthem for Iga.
14. We climbed the 15th-century town hall tower at Rynek 1. The tower is 70 metres high and its radio-controlled clock displays the time according to the atomic time standard.
15. We sat down for coffee in probably the most beautiful place in Krakow, called the Alley of Doubting Thomas, in the Camelot café with Nikifor's paintings and folk sculptures. In its charming interior there is the Loch Camelot theatre. However, we were unable to secure tickets for the performance.
16. We had dinner at an Italian restaurant called Boccanera. They know how to make pasta frutti di mare.
17. In the evening we wandered around Kazimierz, the most beautiful district of Krakow, whose atmosphere cannot be compared to anything else.
18. We had another night meal at the iconic roundabout, located in the heart of Kazimierz. We ate kumir, a famous Krakow delicacy - a potato with sour cream and additions, and zapiekanka.
19. On the advice of an Uber taxi driver, we went to Bazaar Bistro, by the roundabout, for breakfast. The taxi driver was right - their breakfasts are fantastic, and the only thing you can find fault with is the waiting time for a table.
20. It is worth seeing the Underground Museum located under the market square, where you can see the archaeological excavations on which Kraków was built.
21. We visited the Old Synagogue in Kazimierz, which houses the Jewish History Museum.
22. We also visited Oskar Schindler's Enamel Factory, a bit away from the city centre, which for me is the best museum in Kraków, telling the story of Kraków's war history.
23. We had our last lunch at Judah Street Market. It's a temple of street food, which is abundant in Kazimierz. I ate a roll with pulled pork there, a Krakow delicacy with beetroot, chocolate and pear.
Krakow is magical and every time I come here it shows a different side and surprises. Don't hesitate any longer and go to Krakow!
